Mobile Diagonistics

Oladele Michael welcomes you to Motor Mobile Diagnostics Rapid Fix!
Michael Oladele is an automobile Engineer graduate of Yaba Tech and further automobile training at City and Guild London with a diploma, He has worked in various company to mention a few: Cherry Motors Oluwalogbon, Jack Motors Ibadan and Jonhid Authors. He comes with a wealth of experience in Mobile automobile repairs!

MMDRF is the number one mobile technologist that will always meet you at the very point of your need!  What this meant is an end to your head ache when you fine vehicle breaks down in a lonely place away from base, all you need is a call to 08114510638 and in no time our team of experts will arrive there to fix your vehicle rapidly and saves the cost of towing! You are warmly welcome!! We are here to put a smile on your face.

Samples of Vehicles under repairs:

TIPS ON ATTENTION TO YOUR VEHICLES

RIP Top Gear - we knew you well

So the BBC did what we expected the old dinosaur to do - they cancelled Top Gear. Well technically, they haven't yet - all they've done is sack Clarkson. But given that James May and Richard Hammond won't do the show without him, effectively Top Gear is dead. If Chris Evans - the rumoured frontrunner replacement - becomes the main presenter, then the BBC will have pulled off the impossible by making a show that is actually worse than the US Top Gear. And believe me - that would be hard to do. The BBC mishandled this in the style only they could. They should have kept this quiet and done the investigation whilst continuing to finish (and air) the three remaining episodes. The presenter's contracts were all up for renewal at the end of this season anyway. The BBC could simply have not renewed Clarkson's contract, and then stated the reason for it. But to blow this up out of all proportion and turn it into the public airing of their dirty laundry has cost them a lot. It's cost them credibility, to start with. We know it's also lost them about 4M viewers in the UK. Worldwide, the financial cost is pretty steep. They're in the hole for at least £250,000 for cancelling the Norway Top Gear Live - and that's just in ticket sales alone. Lost revenue from the 180 countries that air the show could come to anything up to another £200M per year. Factor in the magazine, live events, books, DVDs and all the other tie-ins and merchandising and that could creep up to £250M per year. Then there's the lawsuits that they will have to settle with all the TV stations with whom they're now in breach of contract to supply the show - that'll be a one-time cost but it will be expensive. And why? Because the hyppocritical leeches at the BBC continued to make money hand-over-fist whilst publicly complaining about Clarkson at every opportunity. They're archaic dinosaurs who have no idea how to handle their own talent and deal with their own problems without them becoming public. Interviews with other former BBC alumni like Noel Edmonds have revealed just how terrible the Beeb are to work for. So what now? My money is on Sky or Netflix - my hope is Netflix because they have no advertisers, which means Ambitious But Rubbish could shine there. The BBC will continue to attempt to make Top Gear, I suspect, but it will slowly die a long, agonising death. My suspicion is that it'll take a couple of years for them to realise they have nothing, and they'll swap presenters three or four times trying to come up with the magic combination before the inevitable happens.

Disclaimer

I am a pro-car, pro-motorbike petrolhead into basic maintenance. This site is self-published to spread my knowledge. By reading these pages, you agree to indemnify, defend and hold harmless the author, any sponsors and/or site providers against any and all claims, damages, costs or other expenses that arise directly or indirectly from you fiddling with your vehicle as a result of what you read here. If you hurt your vehicle or yourself, don't blame me.

Translated versions of this site:

Car maintenance tips, from the carbibles.com website. Basic car maintenance tips for the motoring enthusiast.

Car Maintenance Tips

Throughout the rest of this website you'll find in-depth articles describing in intricate detail how everything automotive works. On this page, I've simplified all that knowledge into a series of basic car maintenance tips, subdivided by category. These tips apply to pretty much every car owner, from business fleet owners, to specialists like a limo service, to the weekend hobbyist. Basic car maintenance really isn't that hard. There are simple things that you can do on your own like being able to use a silicone lubricant to protect your car from rusting. Some tips have simple explanations right here whilst others link back to the articles in the rest of the site. If you can't find what you're looking for, try the search button at the end of the top menu. If you still can't find what you're looking for, or have a suggestion for something else I should cover, contact me using the contact button on the top menu bar.

TSBs and wiring diagrams

If you're looking for TSB (Technical Service Bulletins) or wiring diagrams for your vehicle, BBB industries have access to most of them for free. (Almost any decent car shop will have access to this sort of information - as the owner, you should too). BBB's search page is well worth a look. Major recalls normally result in owners being contacted, but minor ones get done each time a vehicle is taken to a main network dealer. TSBs are the bulletins sent to the dealer networks containing info on known bugs and issues with all makes and models that need to be rectified when the vehicles come in. If you're looking for a particular TSB or wiring diagram for your vehicle; TSBs and wiring diagrams.

Wheels and tyres

Rotate your tyres!

Every 5,000 miles or 8,000km, rotate your tyres. Tyre rotation.

Clean brake dust off regularly

Brake dust contains all sorts of nasty stuff. If you leave it too long, the combination of road grime, moisture and heat from your brakes will bake it on to your wheels. Brake dust normally clings to wheels with static electricity so a damp sponge and clean cold water is the best way to get it off.

Check your tyre pressures

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy, handling and comfort. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tyre pressure.

Check your tread depth

Bald, slick tyres might be good for motor racing but they're no good on the road. Most tyres come with tread wear bars built into them now - find one, examine it and if your tread is too low, replace your tyres. Four new tyres might seem expensive but they're cheaper than a fine or an accident. Tread wear bars.

While lurking on the Internet and collect the best tips for you, I tried to find the best online-resource with different wheels and tires. I found CARiD website as a really good place to do shopping: http://www.carid.com/custom-wheels.html They offer ultimate wheels and tires collection, largest selection and truly dedicated team of experts to help you!

Engine

Check your belts

At the front of your engine there will be a series of rubber drive belts that loop around various pulleys, driving everything from the alternator to the a/c compressor. Rubber perishes, more so in extreme conditions like those found in an operating engine bay. Get your timing belt and accessory drive belt checked every 25,000 miles, preferably replacing it every 50,000 miles. See the Fuel and Engine bible for information on interference engines and why checking your timing belts is a necessity, not a luxury: Interference engines

Fuel Economy

Check your tyre pressures regularly - once a week is ideal. Bad tyre pressures can affect fuel economy very noticeably. It's easy to do and there is no excuse not to. Checking your tyre pressures

Checking your oil level

This is something everyone can do - it's quick and easy and it'll tell you if your engine needs oil. If the oil is too high or too low, it can cause trouble for your engine. To check the oil, park on level ground and wait until the engine has cooled down after driving, then locate the dipstick. Pull it out and wipe it clean, then push it all the way back in until the top of it is seated properly in the dip tube again. Wait a moment then pull it out again. Check the level of the oil. If it's between the high and low marks, you're fine. (If it's too low, add a little.) The high and low marks can be denoted by two dots, an "H" and "L" or a shaded area on the dipstick. The photos below show a Honda dipstick which has the two dots. Why not just read the level first time around? The first time you pull the dipstick out, it will have oil all over it and it will be difficult to tell where the level is. That's why you need to wipe it on a rag to get a clean dipstick, then dip it back into the oil to get a good reading. More information on why you should check your oil level is here Checking your oil level.

Checking your coolant level

Again, something everyone can do. The coolant is the other thing your engine cannot go without. Every engine is different but if you check your handbook you should find where the coolant reservoir is. It will normally be bolted to one side of the engine bay or the other, and be a white semi-transparent bottle. Wait until your engine is cool and take a look at it - the outside should have 'low' and 'high' markings on it and the level of coolant inside should be between the two.
Do not take the radiator cap off to check coolant levels. If the coolant system is still hot then it is still under pressure and the pressure release will burn you.

Engine cooling systems.

Like the site? The page you're reading is free, but if you like what you see and feel you've learned something, a small donation to help pay down my car loan would be appreciated. Thank you.

Fuel / gas

Will higher octane or premium fuel give me better gas mileage and/or more power?

No. Sportier cars have higher compression engines which generate more power and require higher octane fuel to prevent detonation. That's where the myth of "premium = more power" came from. If your handbook says "regular", use regular. See octane and power for more information.

Bodywork / paint

Keeping your paint finish in good condition

Only choose superior car detailing supplies to keep your car's interior and exterior like new. There are plenty of decent quality waxes and polishes on the market today and if the last time you waxed or polished your car was over a decade ago, things have changed considerably since then. The wax and polish compounds are far more sophisticated both in terms of protection from fading, the look of the finish, and the ease of application. For example Turtle Wax Ice gets rid of that old problem of white wax residue. Is a clean car a vanity thing? Partly, yes, but if you park under a tree where birds help repaint your car with recycled blueberries, that guck will come off a lot easier if it falls on a waxed paint job.
Tip: If you find a bird has pooped on your car, wash it off as quick as you can. There are compounds in bird waste that can damage most car paint jobs. If you leave it in the sun and the poop bakes on, you could end up with a dull spot in the paint.
Also: If you want to show your support for a cause, car magnets (http://www.signazon.com/car-magnets/) are better than bumper stickers. They don't damage the paint and are easy to move around and ultimately remove when the fad has passed.

Electrical

Disconnecting and reconnecting your battery

If you're going to do any work on your car involving the electrical system, disconnect the battery first. To do this, loosen the connector for the negative/ground terminal first, and wiggle the terminal cap off. Use a wire-tie or similar to tie the cable back out of the way. If you need to take the battery out, you can now take off the positive connector.
Why negative then positive? If you disconnect the positive side of the battery first, the negative side is still connected to the entire car. If you drop a tool and it lands on the positive battery terminal and touches anything else on the car, you'll have an electrical short. By disconnecting the negative first, you're cutting off the return path for the current. Now, if a tool drops on to either of the battery terminals, it doesn't matter if it touches part of the chassis or not - there's no continuous path for the electrical current.
Reconnecting your battery. Connect the positive terminal first, and the negative second - the reverse of removal, and for the same reasons. When you slip the negative connector on, there will be a spark as it gets close and makes contact with the negative battery terminal. Don't be afraid of this - it's nothing to worry about. Make sure the terminal caps are done up nice and tight.

Check your battery terminals

Most modern cars run on a 12 volt negative ground electrical system. If your battery terminals or contacts aren't clean, you're making it more difficult for the current to pass around the electrical system. Remove the terminal caps as described above and clean each contact post with a wire brush to get a nice clean metal contact surface. Do the same to the terminal caps, then reattach them as described above.

Lights

One indicator or blinker is flashing faster than the other

When you indicate one way and the blinker flashes quicker than when you indicate the other way, it means one of the bulbs has blown. An auto parts store will be able to tell you what sort of bulb you need to replace it with and your manual should show you how to get at the indicator bulbs - they're different on every car.

Don't touch the glass when changing headlight bulbs

Most headlight bulbs now are filled with halogen and have special coatings on the outside of the glass. If you pick the bulb up by the glass with your fingers, you will leave trace amounts of oil and grease on the glass. When the bulb is used, that area of the glass will get hotter than the rest and it will eventually cause the bulb to crack. When changing headlight bulbs, only hold the metal bulb holder at the base, or make sure you're wearing rubber surgical / mechanic's gloves (clean ones) if you're touching the glass.

Dash / instrument warning lights

	The check engine light. Every new car now comes with OBD-II - On Board Diagnostics 2. This is a fault-registering system connected to sensors all over the car, engine, fuel and emissions system. When the check engine light comes on, it can mean many things. There are something like 4,000 unique OBD2 codes that can be stored. Handheld OBD2 diagnostic tools can be plugged in to the OBD2 port which is normally under the dash on the driver's side. These tools can read out the fault code and/or reset the system to contain no codes. Codes are split into two categories - historical/inactive, and active. The historical codes are lists of things that have been detected in the past but are no longer an issue, whilst the active codes are things that are a problem right now. Codes are subdivided into B-codes (body), C-codes (chassis) and the biggest list of all - P-codes (powertrain). P0440 OBD-II code. This is the most common code you'll find and it's the first thing you should check. P0440 is the code for Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction which covers a multitude of sins. The one thing it covers that you can check is your gas cap (petrol cap). Most new cars have a pressurised fuel system and vapour recovery loop. If you've filled up with petrol and not twisted the gas cap until it clicks, you've not sealed the fuel system. It won't pressurise and the OBD2 system will log a P0440 code. In fact, on a lot of cars, that code is so common they'll actually have some way of telling you to check the gas cap. In the Honda Element, for example, if a P0440 code is logged, the dash scrolls "CHECK GAS CAP" across the odometer display. So if you get a check engine light, check the gas cap first and see if the light goes off. Note : even if the light does go off, the code will likely still be stored in the OBD system and will show up next time it is checked. It wasn't the gas cap. If tightening the gas cap didn't do it, you'll need to find someone with an OBD2 diagnostics tool or reader. Some garages will charge you just for plugging the device in and reading the code. If they do, walk away. They're ripping you off. Better to find a garage or mechanic that will read the code and actually give you a diagnosis rather than just making you pay to find out a number. Smaller garages and local mechanics will normally do this for you for a small fee, and being independent, the diagnosis won't be predicated on you buying some expensive parts from a corporate chain. If you're a do-it-yourself type used to working from shop manuals, then a lot of places that will give you the diagnostic code for free. In America specifically, the Schuck's chain do free diagnostics checks (Checker, Kragen, Murray's, Advance) as well as AutoZone. Drop in - don't phone up and ask. A lot of times if you phone up they'll tell you it's $40. If you just turn up, more often than not they'll do it for nothing. In the UK I'm not sure who does - if you know, drop me a line. The alternative, if you're into maintaining your own vehicles, is to buy a reader and do it yourself.
	The service engine light / Maint Reqd light. This might indicate "Service", "Service Engine" or "Maint Reqd". It's an indicator that you're getting close to a scheduled maintenance interval. On some cars it's as simple as counting miles before it comes on, whilst on others it maps engine temperatures, oil temperatures, air temperatures and other indicators of probable stress to tell you when it might be time for new oil or a service. In most cars this can be overridden or reset by you, the owner. Your handbook will tell you if this is the case. If you take your car for a service, the garage should reset it for you. Typically this light will come on when you start your car, and then turn off again as part of the self-check. If it stays on for 10 seconds then turns off, it normally means you're within 500 miles of needing a service. If it flashes for 10 seconds, it normally means you've exceeded a recommended service interval.
	The electrical fault light. This warning light is different in every car but normally it looks like a picture of a battery, similar to the picture on the left here. You'll see it come on and go off when you start your engine as part of the car's self-test, but if this light comes on and stays on, it means the electrical charging system is no longer working properly. Think of it like a cellphone battery. If the cellphone is plugged into the charger, you can use it indefinitely, but when you disconnect it from the charger, there's a limited amount of time before your battery runs out. It's exactly the same in your car, only bigger. Every car has an alternator - the charger - and a 12v battery used to supply power to the electrical system. If the alternator becomes faulty or the drive belt to it snaps, then it will not be able to do its job. The longer you drive, the more your car will use up the remaining juice in the battery and eventually the engine will die. This almost always requires a new or refurbished alternator.
	Brake warning light 1 Most cars nowadays have a brake warning light on the dash. Its purpose is to alert you that something is wrong in the braking system somewhere. If it comes on, check your owner's manual to find out its meaning. The brake warning light doesn't have a standard meaning; it could be used for multiple purposes. For example, the same light may be used to show that the hand brake (parking brake for the Americans amongst you) is on. If that's the case and you're driving, you ought to have noticed the smell of burning brake dust by now. The light can also indicate that the fluid in the master cylinder is low. Each manufacturer has a different use and standard for this light. Which is nice. Because it would be such a drag if the same indicator meant the same thing in every vehicle.
	Brake warning light 2 If you've got an ABS-equipped car, you also have a second light - the ABS light. If it comes on, get it seen to as soon as possible. It means the ABS computer has diagnosed that something is amiss in the system. It could be something as simple as dirt in one of the sensors, or something as costly as an entire ABS unit replacement. Either way, if that light is on, then you, my friend, have got 1970's brakes. It's important to note that this light normally comes on when you start the car and then switches off a few seconds later. If it blinks, throbs, flashes or in any other way draws your attention to itself, then take note. It's not doing that just to please itself. Compared to a steady light, a blinking ABS light normally indicates something more serious. In some cases it could be as bad as "you have no brakes at all."
	Coolant warning light This is normally the coolant level warning light. If this comes on it means that the level of coolant in your radiator is low and needs topping up. DO NOT OPEN THE RADIATOR CAP WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT! The coolant system is pressurised and it could easily release pressure and spray you with boiling coolant. Do it when the engine is cold. Top up the system with either a pre-mixed coolant bought from a shop, or with distilled water. Don't use tap water - the mineral deposits in it boil out in the cooling system and calcium gets depositted around the inside of the radiator making it less efficient (which will eventually cause it to fail). It's always best to use pre-mixed coolant, or to mix your own rather than using neat water. The coolant mixture behaves as an antifreeze in winter as well as a corrosion-inhibitor to stop your engine rusting from the inside out.
	Oil warning light Typically this light will come on if your oil pressure is too low. Low oil pressure is serious and if you continue to drive with this light on, eventually your engine will die. Low oil pressure can be caused by a failed oil pump, a blocked oil filter or strainer in the sump, or by low oil levels - for example if your engine is burning oil. Either way, you need to get it fixed, and fast. Low oil pressure is A Bad Thing and your engine won't thank you for leaving this problem untreated.

VEHICLE MAINTENANCE TIPS:

AC complication

Do you know that a bad catalytic converter can cause the car AC to stop cooling? A plugged catalytic converter could cause the engine to overheat and the air conditioner may be shut-off as a result.
Another way might be if the bad converter reduces the idle speed of the car. Many newer vehicles shut-off the air conditioner if idle speed falls below specifications. Problems such as these might just be the reason why your AC is not working properly. Get it diagnose the proper way.

TYRE TIPS

1. Vehicle tyres have expiry date. The rubber and other chemical components used in making tyres degrade with time.
2. Tyres should be used within 4 to 6 years from the date of manufacture (DOM) stamped on the body, after which they become EXPIRED whether USED or NOT USED.
3. While many motorist go for fairly used “tokunbo” tyres due to economic reasons, others prefer buying brand new tyres for safety concerns
4. Many of these motorists who buy the brand new tyres HAVE UNKNOWINGLY BOUGHT EXPIRED TYRES that have exceeded their shelf-life limit because they are not aware that tyres have manufacturing and expiring dates. Expiring date is calculated from the date of manufacturing stamped on the side of the tyre (see picture)
5. Date of manufacture come in 4 digit figures e.g. 4202. The first two figures stands for the week, while the last two digits is the year of manufacture. In this instance we have 42nd week of 2002. Considering that we have 52 weeks in a year, 42nd week in 2002 will be October 2002
6. Another example is a tyre having the number 0513. This means that the tyre was manufactured in the 5th week of 2013, which is February 2013 and will expire 4 to 6 years from this date whether used or not.
7. Even with all the treads intact, once a TYRE IS EXPIRED, the rubber component become hardened and may likely BURST when exposed to excessive pressure and heat. THE OUTCOME MAY BE VERY FATAL.
When next you want to buy a new tyre for your car, ALWAYS check for the date of manufacturing. This could be one thing you need to do to stay alive for the people you love. Comments are welcome and don’t forget to share with friends. 

To Idle or Not to Idle, That is the Question

It is that time of the year when many motorists let their vehicle “warm up” or idle before driving. In fact, today’s modern cars are ready to drive in cold temperatures without excessive idling, says the Car Care Council.

“Unless you are trying to defrost the windshield or warm the interior of your car, idling is not required for today’s vehicles,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “In most cases, idling longer than 30 seconds is unnecessary. The best way to warm up your car’s engine is to drive gently at the start. Remember, a vehicle gets zero miles per gallon when idling and the result is lower fuel economy and wasted money.”

The idea of idling before driving dates back to when cars were built with carburetors. With new fuel-injection technology, complex computer systems and thinner synthetic oils, drivers don’t need to warm up their cars before hitting the road.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), “When a car idles for more than 30 seconds, it has several negative effects, such as increasing air pollution unnecessarily, wasting fuel and money, and causing excessive wear or even damaging a car’s engine components, including cylinders, spark plugs, and the exhaust system. Contrary to popular belief, idling isn’t an effective way to warm up most car engines.”

The non-profit Car Care Council has a free 80-page Car Care Guide for motorists that features several pages of fuel economy and environmental awareness tips. Available in English and Spanish, the popular guide uses easy-to-understand everyday language rather than technical automotive jargon, fits easily in a glove box and can be ordered by visiting The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a free copy of the council’s popular

Home for the Holidays: Is Your Car Up for the Journey?

Before you pack up the car to head home for the holidays, the Car Care Council reminds you to make sure your vehicle is ready for the journey. Conducting a thorough vehicle inspection will help you avoid the inconvenience and potential safety hazards of breaking down miles away from home.

“It’s easy to remember to get your family ready for the holiday festivities, but what about preparing the car that’s going to get you there?” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Having a pre-inspection performed on your car will give you peace of mind as you travel and help make your journey safer.”

Before leaving home, the Car Care Council recommends a check of the following, often overlooked, items: tires and tire pressure, brakes, hoses and belts, air filters, wipers, exterior and interior lighting, and fluid levels, including engine oil, windshield washer solvent and antifreeze/coolant.

“A pre-trip inspection provides the opportunity to have service repairs made at home by your own trusted technician who knows the vehicle, and helps reduce the chance of costly and dangerous trouble on the road,” said Rich While.

The Car Care Council also recommends that drivers keep important telephone numbers in their cell phone or glove box in case of a breakdown or travel emergency. Vehicles should have a roadside emergency kit that includes items such as a first aid kit, a tire-changing jack, a tire pressure gauge, jumper cables, a flashlight and a blanket. A copy of the recently-updated 80-page Car Care Guide should be kept in the glove box and can be ordered free of charge at www.carcare.org/car-care-guide.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers.

Seven Signs Your Brakes Need to be Inspected

During Brake Safety Awareness Month in August, the Car Care Council reminds motorists that routine brake inspections are essential to safe driving and maintaining your vehicle.

“When it comes to vehicle safety, the brake system is at the top of the list, so have your brakes checked by an auto service professional at least once a year,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Knowing the key warning signs that your brakes may need maintenance will go a long way toward keeping you and others safe on the road.”

The Car Care Council recommends that motorists watch for seven signs that their brakes need to be inspected:

1. Noise: screeching, grinding or clicking noises when applying the brakes.
2. Pulling: vehicle pulls to one side while braking.
3. Low Pedal:brake pedal nearly touches the floor before engaging.
4. Hard Pedal: must apply extreme pressure to the pedal before brakes engage.
5. Grabbing: brakes grab at the slightest touch to the pedal.
6. Vibration: brake pedal vibrates or pulses, even under normal braking conditions.
7. Light: brake light is illuminated on your vehicle’s dashboard.

Brakes are a normal wear item on any vehicle and they will eventually need to be replaced. Factors that can affect brake wear include driving habits, operating conditions, vehicle type and the quality of the brake lining material.

Using the Car Care Council’s free personalized schedule and email reminder service is a simple way to help you remember to have your brakes inspected and take better care of your vehicle. It is an easy-to-use resource designed to help you drive smart, save money and make informed decisions.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a free copy of the council’s popular Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

A Resolution You Should Keep: Be Car Care Aware

Why not resolve to be car care aware in the coming year? By spending a little time now on preventive maintenance, drivers can save a lot of headaches in the long run and make for a great year on the road, says the non-profit Car Care Council. 

“Regular auto care shouldn’t be one of those New Year’s resolutions that goes by the wayside,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Preventative vehicle maintenance pays off all year, every year.”

To be car care aware, the council recommends incorporating the following service interval schedule items as part of your New Year’s resolution:

· Perform monthly checks of tire pressure and the condition of tires, lights and windshield washer fluid. The vehicle should also be cleaned monthly.

·  Every three months or per the owner’s manual, check the engine oil and filter, check the levels of other fluids including automatic transmission, power steering and brake, and check the battery and cables, belts and hoses. The exhaust and fuel filter should also be checked at this interval. 

·  Every six months or 6,000 miles, the chassis lubrication should be checked and windshield wipers should be replaced.

·  Every 12 months or 12,000 miles, the brakes, spark plugs, coolant and steering and suspension should be checked.

The Car Care Council website features an online custom service schedule and email reminder service that is available free of charge and can be personalized by motorists to help make vehicle ownership more enjoyable, economical and convenient. There is also a general service schedule that vehicle owners may choose to follow. Drivers should also consult their owner’s manual for specific recommendations by the car maker.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the Be Car Care Aware consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org

Six Vehicle Warning Signs Your Nose Can Recognize

Most vehicles start out with a “new car smell,” but there are other specific odors that motorists should never ignore. Identifying these suspect smells early on can help car owners be car care aware and avoid the hassle and expense of an unexpected breakdown, says the Car Care Council.

“Unusual smells can be the sign of serious, and potentially costly, trouble for your vehicle. By acting quickly and making necessary repairs, you’ll be able to breathe easy knowing there is no harmful damage to your car,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council.

The Car Care Council recommends a sniff test of your vehicle to identify any unusual smells, including the following six warning signs:

1.  The smell of burnt rubber could be slipping drive belts or misplaced loose hoses that might be rubbing against rotating accessory drive pulleys. Do not reach in if the engine compartment is hot.

2.  The smell of hot oil could mean that oil is leaking onto the exhaust system. To verify the leak, look for oil on the pavement or smoke coming from the engine area.

3.  The smell of gasoline is likely the sign of a gas leak in some area of the vehicle such as a fuel injector line or the fuel tank. Any smell of fuel can result in a possible fire hazard, so immediate attention should be given.

4.  The sweet smell of syrup may be a sign that your car is leaking engine coolant from a leaky component related to the car’s cooling system. Do not open the radiator cap when it is hot.

5.  The smell of burning carpet could be a sign of brake trouble and a safety hazard. Have your brakes checked right away, especially if this smell is happening during normal driving conditions.

6.  The smell of rotten eggs is never a good one and, if you smell it coming from your vehicle, it could mean a problem with your catalytic converter not converting the hydrogen sulfide in the exhaust to sulfur dioxide properly. This smell can also be attributed to a poor running engine, causing the catalytic converter to become overloaded and fail due to meltdown.

“When you smell any peculiar odor, you should not ignore it. Instead bring your vehicle to a professional service technician that you trust to get an informed opinion on the nature of the odor,” concluded White.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

The ABCs of Car Care for New Drivers

It’s never too early to learn the ABCs of car care, says the Car Care Council.

• A – Always follow a preventative vehicle maintenance plan.
• B – Be sure to have your car inspected when you suspect there is a problem.
• C – Correct the problem to help avoid the inconvenience and potential safety hazards of breaking down away from home.

“Most young people can’t wait to drive, but their car care education should begin well before their parents hand over the keys,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “Understanding the basics of car care before taking the wheel will help keep new drivers safer on the road.”

The Car Care Council recommends that new drivers keep a free copy of its popular Car Care Guide in the glove box and learn about 10 car care inspection procedures that are an important part of any preventative vehicle maintenance plan:

1. Check all fluids, including engine oil, power steering, brake and transmission as well as windshield washer solvent and antifreeze/coolant.

2. Check the hoses and belts to make sure they are not cracked, brittle, frayed, loose or showing signs of excessive wear.

3. Check the battery and replace if necessary. Make sure the connection is clean, tight and corrosion-free.

4. Check the brake system annually and have the brake linings, rotors and drums inspected at each oil change.

5. Inspect the exhaust system for leaks, damage and broken supports or hangers if there is an unusual noise. Exhaust leaks can be dangerous and must be corrected without delay.

6. Schedule a tune-up to help the engine deliver the best balance of power and fuel economy and produce the lowest level of emissions.

7. Check the heating, ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) system as proper heating and cooling performance is critical for interior comfort and for safety reasons such as defrosting.

8. Inspect the steering and suspension system annually including shock absorbers, struts and chassis parts such as ball joints, tie rod ends and other related components.

9. Check the tires, including tire pressure and tread. Uneven wear indicates a need for wheel alignment. Tires should also be checked for bulges and bald spots.

10. Check the wipers and lighting so that you can see and be seen. Check that all interior and exterior lighting is working properly and replace worn wiper blades so you can see clearly when driving during precipitation.

To request a free copy of the Car Care Council’s 60-page Car Care Guide or to view the electronic version in English or Spanish, visit www.carcare.org/car-care-guide.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

Auto Repair: Wondering About Your Warranty?

It’s a common misconception that only car dealers can perform the routine maintenance and repairs on a newer vehicle that is under warranty. In fact, it is law that consumers can patronize their neighborhood repair shop or do the work themselves without violating the manufacturer’s warranty, says the Car Care Council.

Consumers are protected by the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, enforced by the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which prohibits a manufacturer from voiding the vehicle warranty because service was done by a non-dealer. According to the FTC, “It’s illegal for a dealer to deny your warranty coverage simply because you had routine maintenance or repairs performed by someone else. Routine maintenance often includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, fluid checks and flushes, new brake pads and inspections.”

“Many motorists wonder if they will void their factory warranty if someone other than the dealer services their vehicle,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “The truth is that consumers can have routine repairs performed by their local independent repair shop or do the work themselves without affecting the warranty. It is also important to note that using aftermarket parts does not void the warranty.”

When using a non-dealer, independent aftermarket shop to maintain your vehicle, the council strongly recommends keeping records and receipts for all maintenance that is done to the vehicle and adhering to scheduled maintenance requirements. If a warranty claim arises, these records will provide proof that maintenance has been done in accordance with the manufacturers’ recommendations and requirements.

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a copy of the council’s Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

A Battery Check Today Can Keep the Tow Truck Away

A battery check today can keep the tow truck away, says the Car Care Council, as it advises vehicle owners to have their battery tested and replaced if necessary this fall to avoid being stranded this winter.

Sooner or later all batteries have to be replaced, and excessive heat and overcharging are the two main reasons for shortened battery life. Heat causes battery fluid to evaporate, thus damaging the internal structure of the battery. A malfunctioning component in the charging system, usually the voltage regulator, allows too high of a charging rate, leading to slow death for a battery. Colder temperatures increase the thickness of the engine oil, making the engine harder to turn over and the battery work harder, leading to harder starting.

To get the most life out of a battery, the Car Care Council suggests the following:

• Be sure the electrical system is charging at the correct rate; overcharging can damage a battery as quickly as undercharging.

• If your battery is the type that needs to be topped off, check it regularly, especially in hot weather. Add distilled water when necessary.
• Always replace a battery with one that’s rated at least as high as the one originally specified.

• Keep the top of the battery clean. Dirt becomes a conductor, which drains battery power. Further, as corrosion accumulates on battery terminals it becomes an insulator, inhibiting curr

Essential Items to Keep in Your Car

5, When we think of car safety, airbags and seatbelts spring to mind – and rightly so. However, we often overlook the smaller items that can go a long way to keeping things under control in an emergency situation. It doesn’t take much money to stock your car, and having these tools at hand wherever you are can protect you and your passengers until that tow truck shows.

Owner’s Manual
The hefty owner’s manual found in your glove box is probably the first item to get moved out when you need room to store that iPod connector and GPS unit, but you never know when you’ll need it while on the road. In it, you can find all kinds of information from an explanation on the warning light that just illuminated or the type of oil your car requires –bits of knowledge that you’d rather not guess on when the time comes.

Jumper Cables
Leave your lights on overnight? Yep, we’ve done it too. In fact, most drivers have experienced the sound of a sharp click instead of an engine turning over at one time or another, but those who have jumper cables don’t need to panic or have to rely on the tow truck. If you have cables within reach, flagging down a fellow driver and connecting the leads is all it takes to get your car going again.

Distilled Water
We can’t live without the stuff, which means water tends to come in handy when stranded by the side of the road. Keeping a container of water in your car will help stave off dehydration while you wait for help to come. In warmer areas, it can also be used to top off your radiator so your car doesn’t overheat – just be sure to use distilled water instead of tap water to avoid rust formation.

First-Aid Kit
We keep Band-Aids, antiseptic cream and a variety of other first-aid items tucked away in a medicine cabinet at home, so it makes sense to have a first-aid kit in your car too. You’ll delve into it to cover up that paper cut on your kid’s finger or to administer more critical first aid in serious situations.

Duct Tape and Rope
Duct tape and rope have about a million uses, and while they can create a mean cat’s cradle and impervious wallets, they also tend to help in automotive situations. The two inexpensive items may not save your life, but duct tape can help you hold your glove box closed if the latch breaks and rope can be used to strap online casino down a piece of furniture you’re transporting across town. They’ll just make life a little easier.

Blanket or Large Towel
Anything large enough to cover you and provide extra warmth will do the job here. The goal with a blanket is that it should keep you nice and toasty if the heater breaks or you have to spend the night in your car, when staying warm is a priority.

Swiss Army Knife or Leatherman
They don’t call them multi-tools for nothing; these handy little gadgets hold pint-sized versions of the tools you’ll need in everyday life and they are so compact that there’s no reason not to have one in your glove box. From screwdrivers to tweezers, you’ll always have a tool suited for the job at hand.

Tire Pressure Gauge 
Maintaining the recommended pressure in your tires is important for a number of reasons– fuel economy stays on target and your tires are less likely to blow out. Having a tire pressure gauge in the car means you can quickly check the pressure anywhere, and you won’t have to rely on the potentially inaccurate ones at the gas station.

Snack Bar
If you’ve ever spent three hours stationary on the highway because a trucker decided to spill his entire load of canned goods across four lanes, you’ll know exactly how important having a little snack in the car can be. No one wants to resort to scrounging for food in the seat cushions and feeling lightheaded from hunger while driving probably isn’t the safest option. A snack bar goes a long way when waiting for a tow truck to reach you as well.

Napkins, Tissues or Paper Towels
We tend to do a lot of eating and drinking in our cars – it’s only natural when we spend so much time in them. But spills also happen, and so do marker stains, runny noses and even bouts of crying – hey, everyone’s had a bad day, right? Be able to give friends a lift with dignity by keeping your car, your kids, and your face clean.

Updated Registration and Insurance Card
Even the best of us get pulled over for some reason or another. The laws vary state to state, but most require you show registration and proof of insurance when you get pulled over. Don’t make the nice policeman mad by not having the proper documentation on you. Your insurance card and all the information it contains will also be mighty useful if you get into a fender bender.

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

What to Do When Your Engine Overheats

Things can get out of control quickly if you don’t know what to do when your vehicle’s temperature rises.

Many modern automobiles are so refined that you can hardly hear their engines anymore, but don’t be lulled into complacency—there’s still a combustion cycle taking place under the hood, and catastrophic overheating remains a remote possibility. That’s why you should periodically check your vehicle’s temperature gauge while driving. Every gauge has a normal stopping point once the engine is warmed up; it’s usually a bit below the midpoint line between cold and hot. It’s probably not a doomsday scenario for your engine if your gauge ever reads anywhere above normal, but it could easily become one if you don’t take prompt action. Here are the steps you’ll need to know.

Step 1: Check for steam
The one surefire indication that you’ve really got an overheating engine is that old B-movie standby: plumes of steam pouring out before your eyes. Except it likely won’t be that dramatic, so take a closer look. If you see any steam at all, proceed to Step 3 posthaste lest you meet the same fiery demise as many a B-movie villain. Steam is bad. Take it seriously.

Step 2: Turn off your A/C, Turn on your heater
If you’re the cautious type, skip directly to Step 3—but bear in mind that older engines in particular are prone to mild overheating on hot days, especially when the air conditioner has been running. There’s nothing out of the ordinary in this case; you just need to give your engine a breather. So if you don’t see any steam, you can turn off the A/C and see if that calms things down. If it doesn’t, put your heater on full-blast, which will transfer heat away from the engine. Of course, it will also transfer heat toward you, but your comfort is a lesser priority than the engine’s at this point. If these measures don’t work in short order, then you’ve definitely got a problem, and you need to stop driving and figure it out.

Step 3: Pull over and turn off your engine
When you find a safe place to stop, get there and kill the engine immediately. Do not idle the engine while you’re collecting your thoughts. Engines have to work harder to keep cool at idle than at cruising speed, and the last thing you want to do is add stress to a potentially overheating engine. So turn it off, and then take that breath. NOTE: If you are not a do-it-yourselfer, and you believe your engine is suffering from more than just temporary overload, now is the time to call for roadside assistance. The remaining steps will require you to get your hands dirty.


Step 4: Pop the hood
WARNING: Very likely it’s hotter than usual under there. You’ll get a feel for this once you’ve pulled the hood release and the hood is slightly ajar. If the heat strikes you as potentially dangerous—as it may well be—then let the engine cool down before proceeding. Only open the hood fully when you are confident that it’s safe to do so.

Step 5: Check coolant levels
Your engine should have a coolant reservoir in the vicinity of the radiator (see your owner’s manual for the exact location). This is usually made of plastic and thus unlikely to be dangerously hot. Check the coolant level in this reservoir. If it’s normal, you’re in luck—chances are you’ve just got a malfunctioning temperature gauge. As long as there are no other signs of overheating, you can restart the engine and proceed with caution. If it’s low or empty, however, there’s probably a coolant leak somewhere. Calling for roadside assistance is strongly advised here, though the more mechanically inclined might first inspect the radiator hoses for loose clamps and such.

Things can get out of control quickly if you don’t know what to do when your vehicle’s temperature rises.

By Josh Sadlier

Step 6: If you need to keep driving…
Wait until you’re certain that the engine is cool, protect your hand with a thick glove or rag, and twist off the radiator cap. Coolant is normally visible just below where the cap sits (your owner’s manual will have the details), but if your engine’s overheating, the coolant in your radiator should be visibly depleted. Be sure to refill both the radiator and the reservoir, using coolant or—if necessary—water. This should bring the temperature down once you’re underway, but remember, you’ve got a serious leak somewhere, so be vigilant. If the temperature starts rising again, you’ll have to pull over and repeat the process. Incidentally, by no means should you view this as a long-term solution—your engine needs professional help, so get your mechanic on the job as soon as you can.

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

How Often Do You Need To Change Your Oil?

October 5, 2011

Estimates vary as to when you need to change the motor oil in your car. Which numbers are right?

Oil change time intervals rely on a number of mitigating factors that determine when one should get their vehicle’s oil changed. It seems like every person you ask has a different answer for how often engine oil should be changed. Knowing which factors affect the cleanliness of your oil can help you make an informed choice as to when you’ll need to get around to changing it.

Where To Start

A good jumping off point would be to look at your owner’s manual, which will probably supply a number between 5,000 and 7,500 miles. The manufacturer actually built the car, and as such should be viewed as the highest order when it comes to maintenance advice. Though, manufacturer recommendations are based on ideal driving conditions – driving short distances, never over the speed limit, that kind of thing – something the average driver would be hard-pressed to accomplish. As such, you’re better off using the “severe conditions” maintenance schedule, which will have you changing your oil roughly every 3,000 miles.

What Affects Oil Change Intervals

So, once you’ve uncovered the carmaker’s estimated oil change mileage, there are a few issues that need to be reviewed to adjust that estimate. Hard driving is a major wear and tear factor in determining the mileage amount for an oil change. If you’re driving in a lot in extreme conditions (both hot and cold), stop-and-go traffic, towing a trailer or hanging out on dusty roads, you must change your oil more frequently.

Conversely, and perhaps obviously, if you’re not driving very much, you’ll be able to get away with longer periods in between oil changes. This is a situation when you wouldn’t need to change your oil as regularly and could stick closer to the manufacturer’s suggestion. But remember, it is good to change the ‘black gold’ in your car even if you don’t drive it that much, and when you do so we also recommend a high-quality oil filter, as this is every bit as important as the quality of oil itself.

If your car has been around the block a couple of times, oil changes should be at increasingly more frequent intervals compared to how often you changed it when your car was new. This is due to “blowby”: compressed fuel and air that has leaked into the engine’s crankcase. Over time, soot and grime builds up on the rings, making them slightly permeable and resulting in contaminated oil that needs to be changed more regularly. Synthetic oil is recommended for longer engine life and better engine performance.

Though having to only change your oil every 7,500 miles is something we would all prefer, 3,000 to 5,000 miles are numbers more representative of actual driving conditions. By erring on the side of caution, you’ll help to extend the life of your car.

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

Car Brakes: How Do You Know When to Change Them?

Vehicle brakes are vital to your safety when driving. What signs indicate that they’re wearing out?

For those who suffer a daily commute through heavy traffic, your vehicle’s braking system can bring thousands of pounds of metal, plastic and empty Starbucks cups to a stop hundreds of times before you get to work. It goes without saying that these pieces wear out, but they do so slowly, meaning you may not notice they need attention until it’s too late.

Neglecting your braking system can lead to increased repair costs, or worse, no brakes at all. Fortunately, paying attention to some of the signs of brake wear can keep you on top of stopping maintenance, saving you some money and keeping your car from bouncing off of the guy in front of you.

The most obvious indicator that your vehicle’s brakes need attention is an incredibly high pitched squeal when you come to a stop. Brake pad manufacturers include a little piece of metal called an indicator on the pad itself. When the material wears down to the point where less than ¼ inch is left, the metal piece begins to touch the vehicle’s rotor, doing a pretty good impression of fingernails on a chalkboard. Depending on how hard you drive, that usually means you should replace your brake pads within the month.

Occasionally, the indicator rusts and falls off, leaving you with no irritating noise to warn of brake wear. Additionally, many aftermarket and low-cost pads don’t come with a wear indicator at all. For the more observant, there are other signs that your pads need attention. If it takes you longer to stop than it used to, or if your brake pedal travels farther than it did a few months ago, it might be a good idea to get your stoppers checked. Regular pad checks are a good idea and require little more than removing a wheel and knowing what to look for.

Rotors are a little trickier, as they can usually last through two or three sets of brake pads before needing to be replaced. If your steering wheel wiggles in your hands when you come to a stop, your rotors are probably “warped,” and it’s a good idea to swap them out.

Most shops will offer to “turn” your rotors for you instead of outright replacing them. This means shaving enough metal off of the rotors to make them smooth again. Newer vehicles are equipped with thinner, lighter rotors to save on costs and increase fuel economy. If you’ve got the option, go ahead and replace them.

There are several options for replacement brake parts for your vehicle. While you can never go wrong with what your manufacturer recommends, a variety of aftermarket parts can help you cater your brake system to your driving style. If you find yourself replacing rotors often, you might consider switching to a slotted version. While initially more expensive, the slots disperse heat better than stock, though 99 percent of the time they aren’t necessary for the average driver.

Your rotors aren’t the only piece of brake hardware that can be changed for better performance. One of the most common brake pad upgrades is a switch to ceramic pads. These pads stop just as well, if not better than the stock pieces, but produce much less dust and are generally quieter. While you can also install performance brake pads on your vehicle, these usually have a shorter life span and generate more wear on your rotors.

While neglecting your brakes until your car is grinding to a halt instead of gliding is always an option, it can cost you in unnecessary rotor replacement and possible towing bills. That’s not to mention the likelihood of losing most of your stopping ability right when you need it most. Keeping up with brake maintenance, paying attention to the signs of brake wear and choosing the right equipment for your vehicle will let you slow down like you should.

Top Ten Signs of Brake Wear:

1.   High pitched squealing
2.   Vibration in the steering wheel when stopping
3.   Grinding noises when stopping
4.   Increased braking distances
5.   Longer pedal travel
6.   Feeling the car “pull” to the left or right when stopping
7.   A weak emergency brake
8.   A bad smell after coming to a hard stop
9.   Pedal “fade”
10. Not stopping

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

Car Maintenance: What to Expect at Each Service Interval

Let’s face the facts, no one likes car maintenance. Not only can proper services be expensive, but keeping track of what needs to be done at certain intervals can be a major headache.

The last thing a car owner wants is to pay for a service that wasn’t needed in the first place. Unfortunately ignoring auto maintenance isn’t an option, as doing so will only create more maintenance problems down the road.

Proactive maintenance will make the life of a car owner much easier. This maintenance guide will help owners avoid any unnecessary confusion and gives a general idea of what is to be expected at each major service interval. Specifics differ from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the following should be standard across most makes and models.

Change Engine Oil Frequently
Oil is commonly referred to as the life-blood of an engine and for good reason. Proper lubrication is tantamount to an engine’s health, so you need to regularly replace your engine oil and oil filter.

The engine oil and filter should be changed, on average, about every 3,000 to 5,000 miles for a typical gasoline engine. Some modern synthetic oils allow up to 7,500 miles of protection between changes, but only under ideal driving conditions.

Since most of the drives we take are short trips in stop-and-go traffic, it’s always a good idea to change your oil more frequently than the maximum recommended interval. We at DriverSide advise an oil change every 3,000 to 5,000 miles as a safe way to avoid any unnecessary mechanical issues.

Your First Major Check-up: 15,000-Mile Service
Your first major service should come at about 15,000 miles, or twelve months, after purchasing your car. Given the young life of your car and its components, it’s a relatively basic procedure.

Expect to have the engine oil and oil filter changed, along with the engine air filter and the in-cabin air filter. A new engine air filter will ensure optimal gas mileage and keep engine contaminants at a minimum, while a new in-cabin air filter will keep your car’s interior dust and contaminant free.

Wiper blades should also be inspected at this point, especially if winter is approaching, and replaced as needed.

Understanding all of the items in your 15,000-mile service is important, because this process will be repeated at all major services.

30,000-Mile Service
In addition to the items replaced at your 15,000-mile service, a new fuel filter will be needed to keep your engine running smooth.

Engine coolant will also be changed at this time to ensure your car’s engine does not overheat, and power steering and transmission fluids should be flushed out and replaced. These fluids break down over time and lose their effectiveness and, for the average commuter, these fluids will have been in use for roughly two years.

This service should be repeated every 30,000 miles to keep your car in good health.

45,000-Mile Service
Your 45,000-mile service will include familiar, commonly changed maintenance items such as an oil and oil filter change, but the additional focus of the service will be on the car’s ignition system.

Spark plugs are key engine components that need to be replaced after three years or 45,000 miles. Worn-out spark plugs can cause misfires and dead cylinders, which seriously harm the performance and lifespan of an engine. A new ignition management system, which runs the spark plugs, should also be fitted to ensure the entire ignition system is functioning normally.

Brake fluid should also be changed after 45,000 miles or three years, as it absorbs water over time and thickens, losing its efficacy. Brake pads need to be checked and replaced as needed, especially for drivers who spend a significant amount of time in stop-and-go traffic.

Repeat this service every 45,000 miles to ensure maximum engine health and brake use.

60,000-Mile Service
At 60,000 miles, the 30,000-mile service should be repeated with one additional replacement, the timing belt. The timing belt runs critical internal engine components (specifically cams and valves) and can cause serious damage to the engine if it breaks, so be careful not to overlook this easy-to-miss item. Due to its age and constant use, the car’s battery will probably be losing its charge by now and should also be replaced to avoid future start-up troubles.

Repeat this service every 60,000 miles, and at 75,000 miles, repeat your initial 15,000-mile service.

Car maintenance is – by its very nature – an inconvenience, but by following this simple guide, you can easily keep track of your vehicle’s major maintenance items. Regular maintenance will ensure your vehicle remains as problem-free as possible and help retain its resale value. Below you will find a checklist to help you keep track of what service is required at each interval.

Service Interval Check List

15,000-Mile Service
Engine oil
Oil filter
Engine air filter
In-cabin air filter
Wiper blade replacement

30,000-Mile Service
Engine oil
Oil filter
Engine air filter
In-cabin air filter
Wiper blade replacement
Fuel filter
Power steering fluid
Transmission fluid
Engine coolant

45,000-Mile Service
Engine oil
Oil filter
Engine air filter
In-cabin air filter
Wiper blade replacement
Spark plugs
Distributor cap
Brake fluid
Inspect brake pads/replace if necessary

60,000-Mile Service
Engine oil
Oil filter
Engine air filter
In-cabin air filter
Wiper blade replacement
Fuel filter
Power steering fluid
Transmission fluid
Engine coolant
Timing belt
Battery

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

What Does The Check Engine Light Mean?

That little light can mean a lot of things. How do you know if it’s a serious problem or just a small issue?

One day, this might happen to you, you glance down at your vehicle’s dashboard only to see the check engine light turned on. You burst into a cold sweat wondering just how badly your car’s engine needs to be checked.

If your car doesn’t sound like there is a monkey swinging a hammer under your hood and your vehicle is not billowing smoke, you’re probably not in immediate danger. The check engine light, or malfunction indication light, as it’s known to the auto elite, is designed to keep the driver informed of any number of sensor failures or engine irregularities.

As automotive environmental standards became stricter throughout the 1980s, onboard engine monitoring became more and more complex. Today, a variety of sensors feed your vehicle’s computer information on everything from ambient air temperature to the amount of oxygen in the car’s exhaust gasses.

The vehicle’s onboard computer, or engine control unit (ECU), then makes adjustments to ensure that the engine is running as efficiently, and cleanly, as possible in the given conditions. When one of those sensors fail, or gets a strange reading, you get the dreaded amber light of doom. So what do you do?

First, save the cold sweats for your yearly review with the boss. Second, go ahead and get it checked out. A technician will use a code reader – plugging it into your car’s data port – that will display a numerical code that can be referenced to diagnose your car’s problem. Most times the cross-referenced descriptions are less than helpful to a DIYer. You may get “fuel supply system” as the cause of your troubles. Unfortunately, the fuel supply system on most vehicles is made up of a slew of parts, and choosing to replace each and every one until you hit the trouble spot would be costly. Luckily, an experienced technician can decipher your car’s woes.

Occasionally, there may be a simple solution to your check engine light dilemma, and these are things you can check yourself. Failing to tighten your gas cap all the way, not fully seating your engine oil dipstick or a loose oil fill cap can all cause the check engine light to flash. If you check all of the above and you’re still stuck with a little extra amber on your dash, pay a visit to your mechanic.

If you haven’t noticed any huge drop in performance when the light comes on, you can probably get away with putting off your check up for awhile. Don’t take too long though, as the light may indicate the beginnings of a much more serious problem.

Even if that’s not the case, not addressing the issue will inevitably lead to a failed emissions inspection and you bumming a ride from coworkers. Pull that piece of electrical tape off of the light, and get it taken care of.

Five Signs There Is No Serious Problem
Your car seems to be behaving normally
No strange noises
No smoke
No strange smell
You’re getting the same gas mileage

Five Signs There Could Be A Serious Problem
A consistent rattle, knock or other unusual noise
Smoke
A severe loss of power
A serious decline in gas mileage
The vehicle does not start

This content was provided by DriverSide. For more information go to: http://www.driverside.com/

Vehicle Lights and Wipers: The Keys to See and Be Seen

As the days get shorter, lights and wipers play a major role in safe driving, as the chance of an accident increases if you can’t see or be seen, according to the non-profit Car Care Council.

“With fewer daylight hours in fall and winter, it’s important to make sure your vehicle’s lights and wipers are working properly so your visibility is not compromised and you can be seen by others,” said Rich White, executive director, Car Care Council. “From the driver’s seat, you may not notice a light that isn’t working, so inspect all of your car’s lights and replace those that are out. Also, inspect and replace wiper blades so you can see clearly when wet weather hits.”

Lights are normal wear items that require periodic inspection and replacement. The lighting system provides nighttime visibility; signals and alerts other drivers; and supplies light for viewing instruments and the vehicle’s interior. In addition to replacing dimming, rapidly blinking and non-functioning lights, the following tips can help keep you safe.

• Keep headlights, tail lights and signal lights clean. External dirt and debris can dim operational lights from being seen by others.
• Make sure that your headlights are properly aimed. Misaimed headlights blind other drivers and reduce your ability to see the road.
• If there is any doubt on whether or not your headlights should be on, turn them on. Lights not only help you see better in early twilight, they also make it easier for other drivers to see you.
• Don’t overdrive your headlights; you should be able to stop inside the illuminated area, otherwise you are creating a blind crash area in front of your vehicle.

The wiper system keeps excessive water, snow and dirt from building up on the windshield, maintaining clear visibility. Many factors can accelerate the replacement interval of wipers, including operating conditions (winter conditions are tough on wiper blades), frequency of use, material and type of wipers and sunny weather. In fact, wiper blades can deteriorate faster and need more frequent replacement in desert states. Don’t forget to check the rear window wiper blade too!

“Some states have laws that require the headlights to be on with the wipers,” said White. “Keeping your vehicle’s lights properly cared for and replacing wiper blades periodically will help ensure a safer ride, keeping the road ahead well-lit and giving you a clear view.”

The Car Care Council is the source of information for the “Be Car Care Aware” consumer education campaign promoting the benefits of regular vehicle care, maintenance and repair to consumers. For a free copy of the council’s popular Car Care Guide or for more information, visit www.carcare.org.

Five Ways to Maintain Your Nissan 

At Daytona Nissan, we understand what it takes to keep your vehicle running in tip-top shape. Our experienced service crew helps customers every day from DeLand, Palm Coast, Daytona Beach and all over Central Florida to maximize the performance of their Nissan cars, trucks and SUVs. Here are a few tips from our service crew to help you keep your Nissan running smoothly.

1. Get the Most Out of Your Nissan’s All-Season Tire

Whether you’re driving a Nissan car, truck or SUV in Central Florida, maintaining your tires will enhance performance and ensure you’re safe on the road. The good news is that it’s easy to check tire pressure and tread every few months.  And another quick tip: Be sure to rotate your tires. Simple enough, right?
Maintaining proper pressure is a simple way to boost performance and maximize gas mileage. And pressure can be checked quickly and easily with a tire gauge. Every few months, a visual tread check is beneficial, as well. A quick rule of thumb — It’s time to change your tires if you can put a penny in the thread and Abe Lincoln’s face isn’t covered
Also, rotating your tires every 10,000 miles – something we help customers at Daytona Nissan with all the time — will help you get more miles out of your tires.

2. Keep Those Fluids Topped Off

Oil. Transmission fluid. Brake fluid. Washer Fluid. There’s a ton of them to check, but they all play an important role in your Nissan’s performance. At Daytona Nissan, we’re here to help our neighbors in Daytona Beach, DeLand and Palm Coast with all their fluid needs. First, you’ll want to keep a close eye on the engine’s oil. Traditional wisdom says your oil should be changed every 3,000 miles or every three months. It’s what keeps your Nissan on the road, so it’s important you stay consistent.
Aside from changing the oil, things like transmission and brake fluids should be checked regularly, and topped off if necessary to ensure your Nissan’s engine runs smoothly and efficiently.

3. Air Conditioning Maintenance Tips

At Daytona Nissan, we know it gets hot here in Central Florida, and you don’t want to spend a Daytona Beach summer without cold air. Regular maintenance of your vehicle’s air conditioning safeguards you against facing the heat, and here’s how it works:
AC refrigerant is what keeps your car blowing cold air, and every so often, your AC unit needs to be recharged. Not only is this a quick service fix, but it’s also cost-effective. Regular AC maintenance is a small price to pay for comfort.

4. Maintaining Your Brakes

Your Nissan’s brakes keep you safe on the road, and at Daytona Nissan, we’re all about ensuring our customers are as safe as possible out there. Every vehicle relies on brake pads for slowing – and how long they last depends on a few factors, including your driving style and how you use the vehicle.
With that in mind, it’s always a good idea to routinely check your brake pads to ensure they’re in best working condition. Whether you prefer to do it yourself, or if you’d rather a Daytona Nissan service tech take a look, this is an effective way to maximize performance and ensure safety. Other brake maintenance considerations include the rotors and brake fluid.

5. Boosting Your Battery’s Life

The majority of batteries we see at Daytona Nissan are built to last about four years. Although a number of factors can diminish battery life – including driving style and weather — most batteries are easily serviced. At Daytona Nissan, our service technicians can quickly check your battery’s performance, charge your battery, or if needed, change your battery fast. A few things drivers can do to maximize battery life include routine battery cleaning and regular service.
These are just a few tips for keeping your Nissan on the road longer. For our customers in DeLand, Palm Coast and Daytona Beach, we are your one-stop-shop for all things Nissan service related. Whether you need a quick oil change or your engine tuned, Daytona Nissan can get you on your way. If you have questions, or would like to schedule an appointment, you can call Daytona Nissan’s service department at 888-677-7091. Appointments can also be booked online.

 

VEHICLE MAINTENANCE - THE BASICS

It's really not that difficult to keep your car in good shape.

Here are the basics:

• Read your car owner's manual, it has all the information on car maintenance as well as safety precautions.
• Keep all the fluids (e.g. engine oil, transmission fluid, coolant, etc.) clean and topped up.
• Check tire pressure regularly.
• Change you windshield wipers if they don't clean properly.
• Wash and wax your vehicle once in a while to keep the car finish shiny and protected from corrosion. 
• Deal with any problems as soon as they arise, before they become more serious and require expensive repairs.
• Use only original parts.
• At least once a year have your car checked out in a garage.
• Follow your maintenance schedule, there is a number of things that need to be regularly serviced or replaced at certain intervals (e.g. brakes, air filter, timing belt, spark plugs, etc.)

How to check engine oil

Check engine oil regularly, especially if you notice that the oil level drops between the oil changes. Engine oil cools down as well as lubricates the engine. Driving with very low oil level can cause engine problems. Park your vehicle on a level ground. Set the parking brake and make sure the transmission is in "Park." Stop the engine. Wait for a minute or two to let engine oil drain into the oil pan. Pull the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where it is located, check your owner's manual, usually it has a bright handle (yellow) saying "Engine Oil". Wipe the dipstick off. Insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the oil level. The oil level should be between the "Low" and "Full" marks on the oil dipstick. Check the oils color: If it's way too black, it's definitely time to change it. If it's brown, but still clean and transparent, it's OK. If engine oil is of the "coffee with milk" color it means that engine coolant mixes with oil. This is a sign of some internal engine problem, such as a leaking head-gasket - have your car checked out. If oil looks clean, but the level is low, you can just top it up. Use the recommended type of oil found in your owner's manual or on the oil filler cap. Example: SAE 5W-20, SAE 5W-20, etc. If your engine requires synthetic oil, use only synthetic oil. You can find the recommended oil type for your car in your owner's manual. To simply top off engine oil, add a little amount of oil into the oil filler neck. Wait for a minute to let oil to flow into the oil pan. Check the oil level again using the dipstick. If it's still low, add some more, but don't overfill it. Don't forget to install the dipstick back and close the oil filler cap when you finished.

How to check engine coolant

Visually check the engine coolant level in the overflow tank. Your owner's manual has the directions. The level should be between "Low" and "Full" marks. (CAUTION!!!! Do not open the radiator cap or the pressurized overflow tank cap when the engine is hot! The cooling system is under pressure when hot and will spray scalding liquid and steam!) If the coolant level is low, you can top it up using recommended type of coolant mixed with water. Again, your owner's manual has the proper way to do it. Add coolant only when the engine is cool. Use only recommended engine coolant. Sometimes engine coolant is sold already premixed with water and sometimes you will have to mix it. Check you owner's manual or read the directions on the coolant bottle. Carefully add the coolant into the overflow tank to make it between "LOW" and "FULL" marks. If the coolant level drops within a short time after topping up, there may be a leak. Have the coolant system checked - lack of coolant may cause the engine to overheat which may result in serious damage.

Engine air filter

The engine air filter keeps the air entering the engine clean, but over time the filter gets dirty and restricts the air flow. The engine air filter is usually recommended to be replaced every 12,000-15,000 miles or 20,000-24,000 km. Typically the air filter gets checked when you bring your car for an oil change. If you want to check it or replace yourself, on most cars and trucks it's a fairly easy task. Your owner's manual has the directions. If you find that the air filter is dirty, replace it; it's not a very expensive part. It's best to use an original air filter that you can purchase from the parts department at your local dealership for around $30. When you are installing the air filter, make sure it's installed correctly; again, check your owner's manual. If the filter is not installed properly, unfiltered air entering the engine could damage the airflow sensor and increase engine wear.

How to check automatic transmission fluid

An automatic transmission depends on the transmission fluid for transferring engine power to the wheels, shifting gears, lubricating moving parts and cooling down the transmission. Check the transmission fluid when your car is serviced and change it as recommended. Different cars have different ways of checking the transmission fluid level; some require the engine to be shut off (e.g. Honda), some cars don't have a transmission dipstick at all and the fluid can only be checked in a repair shop. Check your owner's manual for proper procedure. This is how the transmission fluid checked on most cars:

After the vehicle was driven for a while to let the transmission fluid warm up, place your vehicle on a level ground. Set the parking brake. Make sure the transmission is in "P" (Park) position. Leave the engine running. Find the automatic transmission dipstick (your owner's manual will tell you where it is located). Pull the dipstick out.
Wipe the dipstick off with a clean lint-free rag. Insert it back fully. Pull it out again and check the fluid level. A transmission fluid expands when warmed up, so if the car has been driven for a while (20-30 minutes), the transmission level should be between "HOT" marks. If the vehicle is cold, the level should be between "COOL" marks. Check the fluid condition: a very dirty fluid with strong burnt smell is a warning sign of transmission problems. Normally the automatic transmission fluid should be clean and transparent, On most cars the new transmission fluid comes red and over time it becomes brownish. If your fluid looks very dark or dirty, check your owner's manual, maybe it's time to change it. Some manufacturers require you to change the transmission fluid at 30,000 or 50,000 miles, check what your car owner's manual says. If the transmission fluid level is low, you can top it up, but be careful not to overfill it. Overfilling the transmission can cause problems. It's very important to use only specified transmission fluid type - check your owner's manual or simply visit your local dealer, they always have proper transmission fluid in stock. Incorrect fluid type can damage your transmission. How to top up the transmission fluid: Using a thin funnel, add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid drain down. Recheck the level again, Don't overfill!

Battery

Modern batteries are the fully enclosed type and almost maintenance free. You do need to check the battery condition visually and inspect for any leaks, cracks or other damage that would indicate the battery needs to be replaced. Make sure the battery terminals are tight and not corroded. Corrosion at the battery terminals will cause poor connection, which can result in all kinds of problems, including a no-start. You may find the tips how to clean the battery terminals in your vehicle's owner's manual or online. Just search the internet for How to clean car battery terminals; there are some video instructions available. Use caution, that white flaky corrosion stuff is very acidic.

Windshield wipers

Replace the wipers at least once a year or earlier if they don't clean the windshield properly. If you still have the original wipers installed, you can just replace the rubber refills; they cost just a few bucks and can be purchased from your local dealership's parts department. Check if the windshield washer jets are working properly.

Tires

Check the tire pressure regularly - at least once a month. If you don't have a tire pressure gauge, it's worth the investment to buy a good one. You can find the recommended tire pressure in the owner's manual, the tire pressure placard (usually located on the driver's door jamb), inside the gas tank lid or inside the glove box. Measure tire pressure when the tires are still cold. Inflate or deflate to the recommended pressure. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the proper pressure! Visually inspect each tire for proper and even wear. There is a safe limit to tread wear and if the tire is worn below this limit, it's unsafe to drive (and in some states it's illegal to drive). Your owner's manual will describe how to measure tire wear or your automotive technician can check them for you. A vibration in your steering wheel is an indication your tires may be out of balance or you may need an alignment. Improper alignment causes increased wear on tires and suspension components, as well as poor handling. Have the alignment checked if your vehicle pulls aside, wanders or feels unstable on the road. A properly performed alignment will make your vehicle more enjoyable to drive.

Tire rotation

Front and rear tires wear at different rate and have different wear pattern. On a typical front-wheel drive vehicle, for instance, the front tires would wear out a lot faster than the rear ones if not rotated regularly. By rotating your tires regularly, you are making sure that your tires wear more evenly and last longer. Some manufacturers recommend rotating tires at every oil change, others may recommend to do it at different intervals. Tire rotation pattern is also different for different tires. It's best to check your owner's manual or call your local dealer for exact recommendations for your tires.

Take care of small concerns

As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car (irregular noise, vibration, shimmer, leaks, warning lights, etc.), have it inspected at a dealership or garage as soon as possible. Not only may it be unsafe to drive, it's definitely better to have any small problems checked and repaired before it leads to something much more serious.